Bare gray concrete or a slab you just uncovered? We stain the concrete itself so the color becomes part of your floor.
Stained concrete flooring in Waxahachie, TX colors the slab you already have with a stain that soaks into the surface and reacts with the concrete, so you get a colored floor without laying tile or carpet over it.
Most folks who call us have bare concrete in a garage or on a patio, or a slab they found when they pulled up old carpet. They want it to look finished without covering it up. Stain can do that, but it shows the slab exactly as it is, so I want you to see yours clearly before you pick a color.
The price mostly turns on how big the floor is and how much work the slab needs before any stain goes down. Old carpet glue, worn coatings and cracks that need repair all add time. The schedule turns on that same prep, plus drying time for the stain and sealer. Your in-person estimate gives you the price for your floor once I've seen it.
Stain doesn't hide anything, so the slab underneath decides a lot about the finished floor. These are the conditions I look at closely and what each one means for you.
Hairline cracks are part of most slabs, and stain just colors them along with everything else. Extensive structural cracking or a slab that has heaved is another story, because fixing that usually costs more than the stain itself. Then an overlay or a different floor is the more practical path, and I'll tell you so.
Water-based stain sits closer to the surface than acid stain, so it wears more readily where people walk all day. Entries, hallways and the path in from the garage are where you'll notice it first. Keeping the sealer in good shape there is what protects the color.
One stain maker's guide says acid stain colors can fade over time, especially with long sun exposure, and that proper upkeep helps limit it. On an open patio through a Texas summer, that's worth knowing up front so you plan the care along with the color.
I'd rather you understand your slab before we touch it. Here's how a stained floor job goes with us, from your first call to the walk-through at the end.
Tell us where the floor is and what you know about it, like patches, old carpet glue, cracks or heaving, or a slab that was poured recently. We get back to you and set a time for me to come see it.
I walk the floor with you and point out cracks, old coatings, patches and any sign of moisture. Then I explain your options, show you where the color may vary and give you a written estimate.
Our crew handles the prep first, then the stain and the sealer, and I'm on the job with them. Prep comes first because stain only takes where the concrete is clean and open.
When it's done, I walk the floor with you and go over how to look after it. You'll know what normal looks like on your slab and what to watch for as the sealer wears.
Stain shows everything in a slab. Patches, old glue, the line where a wall used to sit. It's like painting an old tractor, where every dent shows once the color's on. So before we start, I walk the floor with you and point out where the color may come out different, so nothing about the finished floor surprises you.
Then we choose acid or water-based stain by the look you're after. If the color you want is an earth tone, I'd lean toward acid stain, because nothing else gives that mottled depth. Most of the floor failures I've seen started under the finish, so we take our time on cleaning and grinding before any color goes down.
Stain also suits many basement slabs, and if yours shows moisture, we sort that out first as part of planning your basement flooring. If you want stone or glass chips set into a polished pattern, that's terrazzo flooring, a different job I'm glad to walk you through.
Acid stain reacts with the concrete and leaves a mottled, varied finish that makes each floor its own. The colors run to earth tones and blue-greens, so it suits browns, tans and soft greens.
Water-based stain comes in virtually any color, so it's the pick if you want gray, black or something brighter. The trade-off is giving up the mottled look that sets acid stain apart.
We reply to every request within one business day and set a time for me to come see your floor. The estimate is free, done in person at your property, and there's no obligation to go ahead.
(972) 903-8033Permits here go through the city's Permitting Division, and applications are filed on its online portal. The city's remodel rules cover work on an existing home that changes its structure or layout, and single-trade repairs like reroofing fall outside them. Those pages don't speak to staining a floor, so we check with the permit office while we plan your job and handle any permit the work calls for.
For outdoor slabs, Waxahachie's stormwater eventually reaches Lake Waxahachie and Lake Bardwell, which supply the city's drinking water, so we're careful about where anything washed off a patio ends up. We're based in Waxahachie and stain a lot of garages, patios and slabs that sat under carpet for years, and we do the same work in Midlothian and Ennis.
I come out myself to look at your floor and go over the job with you. Our crew does the work, and I'm on the job with them, so the person who walked your slab is there when the stain goes down. We've been doing this since 2013, and 13 years of slabs teaches you what tends to hide underneath.
We're licensed and fully insured. Your satisfaction, guaranteed. If you want to know whether your slab is a good candidate for stain, call (972) 903-8033 or send us a few details about your floor and I'll come take a look.
When you want a decorative floor with stone or glass chips and a polished pattern that stain alone can't give, terrazzo is the floor to compare.
Basement slabs bring their own moisture questions, and this page covers the floor options that hold up below grade in a lived-in home.
We're based in Waxahachie and stain concrete floors in many cities around it, including the ones listed below. If yours isn't here, call and ask, since these aren't the only cities we work in.
Your price comes down to how big the floor is and how much work the slab needs before any stain goes on. A clean slab that soaks up water is the simplest job, while old glue, coatings or crack repair add grinding and time. You'll get the figure for your floor at the in-person estimate.
Usually, yes. Patching compound has a different calcium content than the original pour, so acid stain reacts differently on it and you can expect visible color variation where patches sit. The brown carpet mastic used through the 1980s and 1990s gets into the concrete's pores, and grinding removes most of it, but leftover residue can bleed through the stain.
Plan on resealing a stained floor every two to four years. The sealer takes the wear, so keeping it fresh protects the color underneath, especially in busy spots. It's easiest to treat that as part of owning the floor from day one rather than a surprise later.
Sprinkle some water on the slab and watch it. If it beads up and won't soak in, the concrete is too smooth or still sealed for stain to take. Try it in a few spots and tell us what you saw when you call, because it tells me how much prep to plan for.
One stain maker's how-to guide calls for at least 28 days of curing on new cement-based work before staining. If you're pouring a new slab, build that wait into your schedule and give us the pour date when you call so we can plan the stain around it.
If you can peek at what's under the carpet or old finish before you call (972) 903-8033 or use our estimate form, I can tell you more right away about what your slab will need.
