Peeling paint, old glue or a slick slab? We grind and clean the concrete so your new coating grabs on and holds.
Concrete grinding and surface preparation in Waxahachie, TX is the work we do before any coating goes down. We grind off old coatings, glue and the weak top skin of the slab, then clean it, so your new floor bonds to solid concrete instead of whatever was sitting on it.
Most folks call us after they've watched a coating peel, or right before they put epoxy down over a garage floor with years of paint, glue or oil on it. Our grinder runs diamond pads across the slab to knock down high spots and strip old epoxy, urethane, paint and mastic, the glue left under old tile or carpet. What's left should be clean, dry and free of dirt, grease and oil.
The price mostly comes down to how big the floor is, what's stuck to it and how thick that layer is, how many cracks need filling, and how much texture the coating on top needs. The schedule turns on the same things, plus whether the slab is dry enough to coat. I'll look at your floor and give you the figure for your job in the estimate.
Every slab shows up with its own history. These are the things I look for first, because each one changes how much grinding and repair your floor needs before it's ready to coat.
Peeling epoxy, paint, sealer and the glue left from old tile or carpet all have to come off, because a new coating is only as stuck as whatever it sits on. Some layers come off in a pass or two and some fight you the whole way, so this is a big part of what I look at.
We grind down ridges and lips at the joints so the new floor lays flat, and we fill cracks and chips before anything goes on top. A coating shows every bump and dip under it, the same way fresh paint shows every dent in a truck hood.
Garage and shop floors soak up oil over the years, and a coating won't hold where that oil is still in the concrete. We grind through the stained spots and clean them, and I'll tell you up front if a stain runs deep enough to need more work.
Here's how a grinding and prep job goes with us, from your first call to the walk-through at the end, so you know who you'll be talking to at each step.
Call (972) 903-8033 or fill out our form, and we'll set a time for me to come see the floor. It helps to have the floor's rough size, what covers it now and the coating you're planning.
I walk the floor with you and point out cracks, old coatings and any sign of moisture. Then I explain your options for the prep and the finish on top, and give you an estimate.
Once you're ready, our crew does the prep first, grinding and cleaning the slab, then puts down the floor you picked. Most of the effort goes into the prep, because that's what the coating has to hold onto.
When we're done, I walk the floor with you and go over how to look after it, what to clean it with and what to keep off it while it cures.
Prep is the part of the job nobody sees once the coating's down, so it's the part I watch closest. Most floor failures I've seen started under the coating, not in it. We grind until the concrete has the right texture for the coating going on, then we clean it just as carefully, because a well ground slab that's still dusty or oily will fail anyway.
For indoor grinding we bring a dust collector, and we keep people out of the room while it runs, because that fine dust gets into everything and it isn't something you want to breathe. It's a lot like running a shop vac while you cut, only bigger. When the grinding's done, the slab gets a final cleaning so the coating meets bare, sound concrete.
Sometimes grinding shows us the slab needs more than prep. If it's rough, chipped or uneven across the floor, concrete resurfacing and overlays can give you a fresh top to coat. If you'd rather keep the look of bare concrete, we can grind it clean and finish with concrete sealing instead of a thick coating.
Epoxy, urethane and other thick coatings need a rougher surface so they have something to grip. We set the grind to the coating you've picked, which is why I ask about the finish before we start.
A sealer or stain soaks into the concrete instead of sitting on top, so it usually needs a cleaner, lighter grind. That can mean less grinding, but the cleanup still gets the same care.
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time for me to come look at your floor. The estimate is free, done in person at your place, and there's no obligation.
(972) 903-8033In Waxahachie, permits are tracked and processed by the city's Permitting Division. Whether your job needs one is something we ask the city about while we plan your job, and we handle any permit the work calls for. City paperwork for contractors also asks for proof of liability insurance with a $300,000 minimum and the city listed as certificate holder, so it's fair to ask any crew whether it carries that.
Rain that runs off driveways and streets here eventually reaches Lake Waxahachie and Lake Bardwell, which supply drinking water to the city's homes, businesses and industries. That's one more reason we run a collector on the grinder and keep the dust out of your driveway, instead of letting it blow out the garage door toward the street.
We're based in Waxahachie and do the same prep work in many cities around it, including Midlothian and Ennis, along with DeSoto, Mesquite and Grand Prairie. Homeowners call us about garages, patios, basements and pool decks, and shop and kitchen owners call about floors that take a beating every day.
I come out myself to look at your floor and go over the job with you, and I'm on the job with our crew when the work gets done. I started this business in Waxahachie in 2013, so that's 13 years now, after a long stretch on other people's crews and a childhood patching barn floors on our family farm.
We're licensed and fully insured. Our promise is simple. Your satisfaction, guaranteed. I'd rather spend extra time on prep and on explaining it than watch a floor peel up later, so I'll show you what's going on with your slab before you pick a finish. When you're ready, call (972) 903-8033 or send us the form.
If you want bare concrete that holds up to stains and dusting without a thick coating, a sealer over a freshly ground and cleaned slab is the lighter route.
When grinding turns up a slab that's pitted, flaking or worn too far to coat as it is, an overlay gives you a new surface to start from.
We're based in Waxahachie and do concrete grinding and prep in many cities around it. Pick yours below to see the work we do nearby, or give us a call if you don't see it listed.
There's no set price for grinding, because every slab starts in a different shape. The size of the floor, how much old coating or glue has to come off, the cracks to fill and the texture your coating needs all move it. I give you the figure for your floor after I've seen it in person.
If only a thin layer of glue, adhesive or membrane is left after the old floor comes up, shot blasting, which throws small steel shot at the slab, can often clear it. A thicker layer makes the shot bounce off, so the job needs grinding too. I'll look at what's on your slab and tell you which it needs.
New coatings usually peel because the surface under them wasn't ready. A coating laid over laitance, the weak chalky skin on top of concrete, bonds to that skin, which can let go under load and take the coating with it. A slab can also feel bone dry and still hold enough moisture to lift a coating within months, so I look for signs of moisture before we coat.
Indoor grinding should be done with a capable dust collector, which one maker's prep guide says must be used because diamond grinding makes a lot of dust. OSHA's silica rule also requires employers to limit their crew's exposure and restrict access to high exposure areas, so ask any crew how they handle it. That's why we run a collector and keep the room clear, as I said above.
Thick epoxy and urethane coatings are commonly specified at CSP 3 to 5, a middle roughness on the concrete surface profile scale that runs from CSP 1, nearly smooth, to CSP 10, very rough. Ask which rating your coating needs, and we grind the slab to match it.
Clear the floor completely, including cars, shelves, tools and anything stored along the walls, because we grind right up to the edges. If old carpet or tile is still down, tell me when you call, since what's under it changes how we plan the prep.
Most of the time goes to whatever is stuck to the slab now, so a bare floor moves faster than one with thick old coatings or glue. Cracks to fill and a slab that needs more time to dry can stretch it. I'll give you a timeline for your floor at the estimate.
What's on your slab and how it has to be prepped can change which coating makes sense, so call (972) 903-8033 and tell me what you have in mind.
