Dusty, stained or peeling concrete? We check the slab, fix it first, then lay a hard, glossy coat built to stay put.
A polyaspartic floor coating is a liquid coat we roll onto a concrete floor in Waxahachie to give it a glossy, protective finish. Whether it holds depends mostly on the shape the slab is in before the coating goes down.
Most people call us about a garage floor that sheds dust, soaks up oil, or has an old coating flaking off in patches. Patios, basements and shop floors come up too. Polyaspartic gives that concrete a hard surface that's easy to clean, and it cures fast, so the room is out of use for less time than with a lot of older coatings.
The price moves with the size of the floor, how much repair the slab needs, whether an old coating has to come off, and the finish you pick. The schedule turns on that same prep, plus how long the coating needs before you can walk or park on it. I give you the figure for your floor at the estimate, after I've looked at it.
Growing up on a farm, I learned that a patch on a barn floor only holds if the concrete under it is sound. Coatings work the same way. Most of the floor failures I've seen started under the coating, not in it, so we spend our time on the slab first.
Before you pick a color or a flake, it helps to know what's already in and on your concrete. These are the things I look for first, because each one changes the prep.
A new coating has to grip bare, open concrete, so old paint, sealer or worn epoxy usually comes off first. Peeling in one corner often means it's loose in more places than you can see, and I'll point those spots out when we look at the floor together.
Years of drips under a truck soak deep into a garage slab, and a coating won't stick well over oil. We clean and grind those spots until we reach clean concrete, and badly soaked areas can add time to the prep.
Fresh concrete holds a lot of water while it cures and dries out, so a new garage or patio usually has to wait before it's coated. If you're building, tell us your pour date and we'll plan the coating around it.
Here's how a polyaspartic job runs, from your first call to the day you get your garage or patio back. Each step has a reason, and I'll explain it as we go.
Call (972) 903-8033 or fill out the form, and tell us where the floor is and roughly how big it is. We'll get back to you and set a time for me to come see it.
I check for cracks, low spots, old coatings and any sign of moisture, and I show you what I find. Then I go over your options and give you a written estimate for your floor.
Our crew grinds and repairs the slab first, because that's what the coating holds onto. Once the surface is clean, sound and dry enough, we put the coating down in the finish you picked.
I walk the floor with you at the end and show you how to clean it and what to keep off it. That way you know how to look after it from the first day.
I check the slab for moisture before anything else, because polyaspartic seals the concrete off and doesn't let moisture pass through it. Then we fix cracks and low spots, the same way you'd straighten a bent frame before you paint it, because a thin coating shows every flaw under it.
Cure times differ from one product to the next, so I go over when you can walk on the floor and when you can park on it for the product we're actually using. I'd rather you hear it before we start than find out from a tire mark in the finish.
Polyaspartic isn't the only coat we put down, and sometimes it isn't the right one. If you want a poured, swirled look, metallic epoxy flooring can be the color layer with a clear coat over it. For a commercial kitchen with hot water and heavy washdowns, urethane cement flooring is often the tougher choice, and I'll tell you if I think it fits better.
Colored chips get broadcast into the base coat and locked under a clear top. It hides dust and small marks, adds some grip underfoot, and it's the finish a lot of people pick for a garage.
A single solid color looks clean and plain in a shop or laundry room, and a clear coat alone keeps the look of the concrete. Both show dirt and scratches more than flake does.
We reply to every call and message within one business day and set a time for me to come look at your floor. The estimate is free, it's done at your property, and there's no obligation to book.
(972) 903-8033In Waxahachie, the city's permitting office tracks and processes permits and runs the front counter, so that's where questions about a permit for your floor get answered. We check with them while we plan your job and handle any permit the work calls for, so you're not left sorting it out yourself.
The ground here works against concrete. About 62% of Ellis County's soil is clay that swells when it's wet and shrinks when it dries, compared with a Texas average of 32%. Slabs around Waxahachie move and crack because of it, which is why the repair work before the coating matters so much here.
Summer is the other thing we plan around. Normal daily highs in Dallas-Fort Worth sit near 96 degrees in July and August, and one maker caps the temperature for applying its coating at 95°F. Each product sets its own limit, so in the hot months we schedule around it, and we do the same in Midlothian and Ennis.
I started Slabworks Epoxy Floors of Waxahachie in 2013 after years on other people's crews, and we've been at it 13 years now. I come out myself to look at your floor and go over the job with you. Our crew does the work, and I'm on the job with them.
We're licensed and fully insured. What we're known for is taking the time to show you what's going on with your slab before you pick a finish, because a floor you understand is a floor you can look after. Your satisfaction, guaranteed.
You can call (972) 903-8033 any day from 6 AM to 11 PM, or send us the form whenever it suits you. Tell us where the floor is and what's bothering you about it, and I'll come take a look and tell you straight whether it's ready for a coating.
If you want a floor with depth and movement, like poured stone or swirled metal, a metallic epoxy layer under a clear top gives you that look.
For commercial kitchens and shop floors that see hot water, spills and steady washdowns, urethane cement is built to take that daily beating.
We're based in Waxahachie and put down polyaspartic floors in many cities around it, including the ones below. If you don't see yours on the list, call and ask.
Installed residential floor coatings in the Dallas-Fort Worth area usually run about $5 to $12 per square foot. That's the going rate around the area, not our quote, and where your floor lands depends on its size, the repairs it needs and the finish. The in-person estimate gives you the figure for your own floor.
Yes, a damp slab can push a polyaspartic coating off the floor. One maker says its polyaspartic doesn't breathe, so moisture coming up through the concrete builds up underneath and will eventually make the coating blister and lift. Ask whether your slab has a moisture barrier too, since without one, seasonal ground moisture can push vapor through even after an earlier test looked fine.
Yes, cracks, divots, rough spots and uneven areas get repaired before any coating goes on, because no liquid coating will fix a floor. One maker also warns that moving joints and shrinkage cracks may still show through its coating later, so I'll tell you which cracks on your slab might do that.
With one maker's polyaspartic, you can park on it after 48 to 72 hours. Light foot traffic is fine within 8 to 12 hours, and the surface stops being sticky in 2 to 3 hours. The product on your floor sets its own times, so plan where you'll walk and park until it reaches them.
An aliphatic polyaspartic is made to hold up to sunlight, and one maker says that type keeps its clarity, color and gloss without yellowing. That's why it's widely used as the clear topcoat over flake, metallic and colored floors, and anywhere natural light comes in, like a garage with the door up.
Clear everything off the floor, including shelves and anything stored along the walls, because we need the whole slab bare to grind and coat it. Plan to keep cars, kids and pets off it until the coating is ready, and tell us about any leaks or wet spots you've noticed.
Regular sweeping and mopping does most of it, and one maker recommends periodic light coats to keep the gloss and protection up. That same maker says heavy traffic areas may need recoating more often. I'll show you what to clean it with when we walk the finished floor.
Square footage and a few photos of any cracks or peeling let me show up to your estimate already knowing what to look at, so call (972) 903-8033 or use the form.
