Tired of plain gray concrete or a worn coating? We get the slab smooth and lay a metallic floor in colors you picked.
Metallic epoxy flooring in Waxahachie is a coating system that puts a see-through metallic coat over a colored basecoat on your concrete and seals it under a topcoat, so you end up with a smooth, swirled floor that won't match anyone else's.
Most people who call us are looking at a garage or shop floor that's stained, patched or wearing an old coating that's started to let go. A metallic floor can look great over that slab, but it's a smooth finish, so it shows what's underneath. I'll look at the concrete with you first and tell you plainly whether it's a good candidate.
The price moves with the size of the floor and even more with the slab under it. Cracks to fill, an old coating to grind off, low spots to level or moisture that calls for a barrier all add work. The schedule turns on those same things, along with how new the concrete is and how long the coats need to cure. The estimate gives you the figure for your floor.
A metallic floor is only as good as the slab it sits on and the coat that protects it. These are the things I check and talk through before anyone picks a color.
Metallic epoxy is a smooth system, so a chip, a ridge or an old patch in the concrete can show right through the finish. It's a bit like painting a dented fender. On a worn or patched slab, getting the surface right is a real part of the job and of what it costs.
One coating maker requires a moisture barrier under any slab on grade, which means concrete poured right on the ground. Without one, seasonal ground moisture can push vapor up through the slab, even if an earlier test looked fine. If your slab sits on the ground, ask any installer how they check for a barrier. I'll tell you what I find on yours.
A metallic floor shouldn't be left without a topcoat, because the topcoat is what takes the foot traffic, the scuffs and the sun's UV. The metallic layer gives you the color and the swirl, and the topcoat protects it. Plan on the topcoat from the start, not as an extra you can skip to save money.
One maker requires new concrete to cure at least 28 days before its metallic system goes on. If you just poured a garage or an addition, that wait sets the earliest day we can start. That month is a good time to settle your colors, so you're ready when the slab is.
Here's how a metallic floor goes with us, from your first call to the walk-through at the end. You'll know who's doing what at each step.
Reach us at (972) 903-8033 or through the form on this page. We'll get back to you and set a time for me to come see the floor in person.
I look over the slab with you and point out cracks, old coatings and any sign of moisture. Then I explain your options and give you an estimate for your floor.
Once you're ready, our crew does the prep first, so the slab is clean and smooth. Then we put the floor down, starting with the basecoat, then the metallic coat, and last the topcoat.
When the floor is done, I walk it with you and show you how to look after it. You'll know what cleans it, what to keep off it and when you can use it fully.
No two metallic floors turn out quite the same. That's the appeal, but it also means you can't pick colors from a little chip on a card. We make a sample board with you and choose the base color and the metallic color side by side, so you see how they work together before anything touches your slab. It's like test-fitting a part before you bolt it on.
The slab has to be smooth first, because any flaw shows through the swirl. Our crew grinds the surface, fills cracks and pits and takes off old coatings, so the epoxy has clean, open concrete to grab. Most of the floor failures I've seen started under the coating, so prep is the part I won't rush.
Metallic isn't the answer for every floor. A commercial kitchen that sees hot water and hard wash-downs is usually better off with urethane cement flooring, which is built for that kind of abuse. If you like the look of the concrete itself and don't want a coating, polished concrete flooring grinds the slab to a shine instead. I'll tell you straight which one fits.
Most floors use one metallic color over the base, which gives a calmer swirl. Blending in a second metallic adds more movement and contrast. We try both on the sample board, so you can compare them before you decide.
A clear high-gloss topcoat shows the depth of the metallic best. In a garage or anywhere that gets wet, we can add a fine grit to the topcoat for traction, which softens the shine a little. Where people walk on a wet floor, I'd take the grip.
We'll reply within one business day and set a time for me to come look at your floor. The estimate is free, done in person, and comes with no obligation to go ahead. If you can, tell us how old the slab is, whether it has cracks and what colors you have in mind.
(972) 903-8033In Waxahachie, permits go through the city's Permitting Division. Its remodel permit covers work that changes a home's structure or layout without adding square footage. That description doesn't name floor coatings, so I don't guess either way. We check with the city while we plan your job and handle any permit the work calls for.
The city also has contractors register. Those who do show a license and proof of liability insurance with at least a $300,000 policy, and the registration runs out a year after it's filed. When you're comparing installers for a job in town, it's fair to ask whether theirs is current.
Around Waxahachie and in nearby cities like Midlothian and Ennis, the metallic floors we're asked about are usually garages and shops. Plenty of those slabs carry oil stains, old patches or a tired coating. The prep is the same wherever the slab is, and so is the sample board.
I come out myself to look at your floor and go over the job with you. When the work starts, our crew does it and I'm on the job with them. I grew up fixing whatever broke on the family farm, and pouring barn floors is how I first got to know concrete. I'd rather show you what's going on with your slab than hand you a brochure.
We've been in business since 2013, 13 years now. We're licensed and fully insured. And we put our promise in plain words. Your satisfaction, guaranteed.
If you'd like me to look at your slab, call (972) 903-8033 or send us the form.
If your floor takes hot spills, steam cleaning or daily wash-downs in a kitchen or food shop, urethane cement holds up where a decorative coating can struggle.
If you'd rather keep the concrete itself and skip a coating, polishing grinds and hardens the slab into a glossy floor that's easy to keep clean.
We're based in Waxahachie and work in many cities around it, including Midlothian, Ennis, DeSoto, Mesquite and Grand Prairie. If you don't see your city below, call and ask.
The basecoat shows through, because the metallic coat on top is see-through. A white or light basecoat gives you a lighter floor, and a black or dark one pulls the metallic look darker. That's why we pick the two colors together on the sample board instead of choosing each one alone.
Yes, but cracks get repaired first, because any flaw can show through a smooth metallic finish. Joints are different, since the slab moves there. One coatings maker says cutting the coating along the joints, called honoring the joints, is the safest way to keep it from cracking, though the lines may not give the look you want. I'd rather see a clean line than a crack across the swirl.
Plan on about a week before heavy use. One supplier's metallic coat is tack free in 8 to 10 hours and fully cured in 7 days at 73°F, and a cooler room usually slows that down. We'll go over when you can walk on it and when the car can come back in.
Yes, it's worth checking, because moisture coming up through the concrete can make epoxy fail. One supplier's simple test tapes a plastic sheet to the slab for 24 hours, and heavy condensation under it signals a problem. I look for signs of moisture when I come out, along with the barrier question above, and tell you what I see.
The price comes down to the size of your floor and the shape the slab is in, so the honest number comes after I see it. Cracks, old coatings, low spots and moisture all add prep, and choices like a second metallic color or a grip additive change it a little. The in-person estimate gives you the figure for your floor.
Clear the room out completely, including shelves and anything stored along the walls, because our crew grinds the whole floor edge to edge. If it's a garage, plan to park outside until the floor has cured. Tell us about floor drains or spots you're worried about, so we can plan the prep around them.
Ask to see floors they've finished, because one supplier notes the swirl patterns depend on the installer's creativity and experience. Photos of past floors show you their style better than any description. It's also fair to ask how they prep the slab and how they check for moisture before the first coat goes down.
We're open 6 AM to 11 PM every day, so you can call (972) 903-8033 after work or on a weekend, or send the form whenever it suits you.
